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Tikal was inhabited for a thousand years, from 900 BC to 900
AD, and at its peak, it was one of the great lowlands Maya cities. The ruins
are quite extensive, over 3,000 buildings, spread over a large area in the
jungle (and more structures are still buried beneath the dense rainforest).
Today, Tikal is very much a local tradition. On weekends, Guatemalan families
come to picnic and climb the pyramids with their children. |
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At the Entrance – |
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On the walkway to the ruins, on the right is the Tikal Museum
(the sign says "Ceramics Museum (Museo Ceramica)," the official
name is the Museo Sylvanus G. Morley, but most importantly, this museum
has an extraordinary collection of Maya goodies. To the left is the Visitors
Center. |
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Tip: Get a map of Tikal at the stalls outside the Visitors
Center, or the Tikal handbook by William Coe also has a good map. |
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At the ticket booth, kids under 12 get in free to Tikal. If
you go late in the day, your ticket will be good for next day also. Around
4:00 or 5:00 pm, there are fewer people, and it's a magical time of day. |
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It's about a 15 minute – ½ hour walk from
the entrance to the Great Plaza, depending how many times you stop to look
at the huge ceiba tree (the sacred Maya "tree of life"), ants
marching on the path, spider monkeys jumping from branch to branch, coatimundis
rooting around for a something to eat. |
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Great Plaza – Start your explorations
of Tikal at the Great Plaza. To the east is Temple I, to the west Temple
II. On the north side of the plaza is the dense cluster of temples, the
North Acropolis. A lower group of buildings, the Central Acropolis, is on
the south side. Underneath Temple I was buried one of the greatest kings
of Tikal, Hasaw Chan K'awil , formerly called "Lord Chocolate." |
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You can climb to the top of Temple II and there's one word
for it: breathtaking. You look across the plaza to Temple I, which is even
higher, and it's boggling to think that this majestic building was built
with stone tools. Little kids are always climbing up Temple II, but the
stairs are steep and there's nothing to hold on to. Watch your step, and
take it slow, especially going down. |
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North Acropolis – The North Acropolis is
really bunches of temples (pyramids) built one on top of the other, for
hundreds of years. Underneath the temples, the kings and important people
of Tikal were buried in tombs along with textiles, ceramics, precious jade
ornaments and shells (you can see these things in the Tikal Museum). |
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A "must see" is the two huge masks in the
North Acropolis. Originally, this soaring temple was flanked by long-nosed
god sculptures, plastered and painted red and white. The temple was built
over, but the (over 10 ft. high) masks have been excavated. Go to the first
"thatched roof" above the plaza, and look down – you'll
see the first mask. Go down the steps, turn left, go through a short passage
(you'll need your flashlight), turn a corner, and the second mask will be
staring you in the face! Indiana Jones couldn't do it better – this is the real thing. |
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Central Acropolis – The Central Acropolis
was the site of toyal court residential palaces and administrative centers
for generations. Each ruler added his own palace and remodeled others, layering
one over the other. One of the best preserved palaces is at the eastern
end, the home of Jaguar Claw I. Inside, you'll just have to imagine the
grand staircases, and Jaguar Claw sitting on a bench in the royal throne
room, presiding over important rituals and conducting the business of state.
(You can stretch out on the bench.) The Central Acropolis has a labyrinth
of rooms to explore! Maybe it's just the wet jungle environment but when
you're inside the rooms, they smell like tide pools at the ocean – faintly organic and salty, "Tikal perfume." |
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Lost World Complex (Mundo Perdido) – The
Maya were incredibly good at astronomical observations, accurately charting
the progress of the sun and planets. In the Lost World complex, buildings
were situated precisely in relation to each other to sight the position
of the sun. Most impressive is the broad Great Pyramid, almost 100 ft. high.
You can climb to the top, but the steps at the top are a little crumbly.
The smaller pyramids are also fun to scramble up. |
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Temple IV – Although Temple IV is physically
the largest temple at Tikal, it's an easy climb up a wooden staircase to
the top. From the top, you'll have that "Star Wars" view of Temple
I and II, poking up through the dense canopy of trees. |
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Trails – There are miles of trails
through the jungle to other complexes. Some of these trails follow the causeways,
raised "roads" built by the Maya through the swampy jungle. Depending
on how old your kids are, or how much time you have, a nice loop is the
Great Plaza to Temple IV, then take the Maudslay Causeway to Complex P,
and the Mahler Causeway to the eastern end of the Great Plaza. |
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Birds and animals – |
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Just as interesting as the ruins is the tropical rain forest,
filled with animals. Early in the morning or late in the day, the forest
comes alive with "las voces de la selva," the voices of the jungle.
There are hundreds of birds in Tikal – parrots, hummingbirds,
woodpeckers, owls, and birds (yellow-throated Euphonia) that make droopy
nests in the trees in the Great Plaza. |
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Look for trails of leaf cutter ants marching in lines
three by three, spider monkeys leaping gracefully from branch to
branch, coatimundis (they look like a combination of anteater and
raccoon plus a long swishy tail), and wild "ocellated" turkeys,
sporting a powder blue head with orange bumps and iridescent feathers. We
encountered some wild turkeys on the road outside the ruins, near the local
eateries (comedores). The turkeys looked so well-fed, my kids called
them "stomach on sticks." Local children use the turkey feathers
to decorate their lovely corn husk dolls. |
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Site Museums – |
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Tikal
Museum (Museo Sylvanus G. Morley) – This small museum is
filled with exquisite ceramics and artifacts excavated from Tikal. Check
out the three long-nosed pale turquoise rain gods, the little figure of
the "Old God" from the tomb of "First Crocodile," holding
a human head in his hands, an incense burner (the Maya god is wearing an
owl headdress), a platter decorated with a flapping fish, a little jade
sleeping jaguar. |
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Don't miss one of the best preserved stela, a portrait
of the king "Stormy Sky" and a re-creation of the tomb
of Hasaw Chan K'awil , formerly called "Lord Chocolate," showing
how the skeleton was discovered, surrounded with jade beads, pearls, ceramics
and shells. |
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Visitors
Center and Stelae Museum – At the Visitors Center, stelae
(the huge carved stone slabs) are displayed. Outside the museum is an exhibit
demonstrating how the Maya erected the heavy stelae. The flat stone was
propped up with sticks, pulled upright into position, then carved in place.
You can't miss the model of Tikal in front of the Visitors Center, as well
as shops where you can buy guidebooks and souvenirs. If you'd like a tour
guide, you can arrange for one at the Visitors Center or at your hotel. |
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Tips for enjoying Tikal |
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Spend more than one day – There
are three hotels within walking distance of the ruins. Staying overnight
(or two or three nights) gives you an opportunity to explore the ruins on
kids' time. You'll want to take an hour or two, just walking around the
ruins in the late afternoon, when a golden glow envelopes the jungle and
the animals are most active. In the heat of the day, go back to your hotel
and relax, take a nap, or go for a swim in the pool. |
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Climate – Visit the ruins early in
the morning or late in the day to beat the heat. Wear light clothing and
don't start to see at the ruins at 1:00 in the afternoon, you'll roast!
(April to May are the hottest months.) December to February are cooler months,
and a light jacket is useful in the cool mornings. |
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Drink lots of water – When
you're walking around the ruins, have plenty of bottled water. |
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Take flashlights and binoculars – Your flashlights will come in handy to see the masks in the North Acropolis,
and to run around the dark passageways in the Palacio de Las Ventanas (the
Palace of the Winds, also called the "Bat Palace.") Have your
binoculars to spot monkeys and birds in the trees. |
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What to bring – Bring a
picnic. There are shaded picnic tables around Tikal (try the ones west
of Temple II). Wear sunscreen and hats. Although you are shaded
in the trees at lot of the time, the sun is intense, and it doesn't take
long to get a royal sunburn. Later in the day, insect repellent is useful
(and anti-itch cream, if you do get bitten.) |
