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California | San
Francisco
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Point Reyes National Seashore
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Point Reyes National Seashore, the "island
in time," has glorious natural scenery windswept headlands,
sand beaches and chalky cliffs, rocky points, meandering estuaries,
grasslands covered wildflowers, fir and fern forests. 40 miles north
of San Francisco, Point Reyes peninsula is separated from the coast
by the infamous San Andreas Fault that runs into Tomales Bay. For over
a thousand years, the Coast Miwok people lived on Point Reyes. In 1579,
Sir Francis Drake sailed his ship, the Golden Hind into Drakes
Bay. Wherever you go on Point Reyes, the natural world will amaze you.
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- Bear Valley Visitor Center Make your first stop at the
Bear Valley Visitor Center. The Center has exhibits about the plants
and animals of Point Reyes, the Coast Miwok and Sir Francis Drake, a
model of the peninsula (geologically it's quite interesting), and a
bookstore. The stairs to the lighthouse can be closed, due to high winds
or fog; any closures are posted each day at the Visitor Center.
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· Next to the Visitor Center are picnic
tables in shade, and the starting points for the Earthquake Trail
or Woodpecker Trail. Both self-guided nature trails are less
than a mile and easy walking. On the Earthquake Trail, check out the
fence that moved 16 feet in the 1906 earthquake. The Woodpecker Trail
passes through grassland into the dense fern and laurel forest and comes
out at the Morgan Horse Ranch. On the trail, look for California quail
bobbing in the undergrowth, and woodpeckers in the trees.
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· Kule Loklo When Sir Francis Drake
arrived at Point Reyes, it was already inhabited by the Coast Miwok
people. A quick half mile from the Visitor Center is Kule Loklo ("bear
valley"), a re-creation of a Coast Miwok village, built
with native tools and techniques. In Kule Loklo, you can run inside
and out of a typical Miwok house, a framework of branches covered with
redwood bark slabs. Check at the Visitor Center for demonstrations of
basket making, grinding acorns and building houses.
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· Morgan Horse Farm Big chunks of Point
Reyes are inaccessible by road, so the park rangers use Morgan horses
to keep an eye on the back country. Stop by the working ranch to see
the barn where horses are washed and groomed, the pole shed, blacksmith
shop, and corrals. The self-guided exhibits cover the history of Morgan
horses (the first American breed) too. Check for scheduled demonstrations
on grooming, blacksmithing and horse training.
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- Tomales Bay State Park Tomales Bay State Park is perfect
for families. Hearts Desire Beach is a fine sand beach with gentle
waves and warm water, warm enough to wade and put on swim suits to splash
in the water. There are plenty of picnic tables, so bring your
lunch and sand toys to dig in the sand.
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· Johnstone Trail goes to Pebble Beach
(half mile). This easygoing trail passes through a cool dense forest,
filled with clumps of ferns and moss-covered trees. Watch out for poison
oak at the sides of the trail; don't brush up against it. Pebble Beach
is another sandy beach, covered with smooth skipping stones (see how
far you can skip your stones on the water).
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· Or, take the half mile nature trail, crossing
over a bridge and little creek to Indian Beach, an even bigger
sandy beach. On the beach are a several replicas of Miwok houses, covered
with redwood bark. Wade in the creek, play in the sand, splash in the
water, Indian Beach is a gem.
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- McClures Beach and Historic Pierce Ranch Take a drive
out to the northern end of Point Reyes, passing by dairy farms, cows
quietly munching away. In the 19th century, the Pierce Ranch produced
premium butter for San Francisco restaurants. At the ranch, walk into
the old hay barn, and around the weathered buildings the old
dairy, calf shed, bunkhouse, one-room schoolhouse where the Pierce kids
went to school.
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· Take the .4 mile sandy trail down to McClures
Beach. In spring and early summer, the hills are covered with yellow
lupine and other wildflowers. The scenery at McClures Beach is stunning,
especially the view north to Tomales Point. It's a good beach to run
around or look for driftwood, but the surf is rough and there are rip
tides. Do not go into the water. Play in the little (seasonal)
creek that flows into the beach.
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- Point Reyes Lighthouse The Point Reyes Lighthouse is
perched on a craggy rock that is the foggiest place on the West Coast.
It's almost a half mile walk from the parking lot to the small visitor
center.
· Along the way is a whale watching overlook.
This is a good spot to watch the yearly Gray whale migration (December
to April, May).
From the visitor center (check out the exhibits about whales and the
lighthouse keeper), you climb down 300 steps to the lighthouse itself.
The stairs are well-fenced and energetic little ones can easily go up
and down the steps. As you're going down the stairs, that yucky smell
is bird droppings from murres, birds that live on the rocks. From the
lighthouse, there is a spectacular view of "land's end."
The lighthouse is closed Tues. and Wed. Tip: The stairs to the
lighthouse can be closed due to high winds or fog; check at the Bear
Valley Visitor Center to be sure the stairs are open before you drive
all the way to the lighthouse.
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- Drakes Beach In 1579, Sir Francis Drake put his ship
into the sheltered bay on the southern part of the peninsula. At Drakes
Bay, he encountered spectacular white cliffs that reminded him of the
Dover cliffs in England, and he named his landing spot "Nova Albion"
(New England). Drakes Beach is stunningly beautiful, a long sand beach
that goes on forever.
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· The Kenneth Patrick Visitor Center
has exhibits about Sir Francis Drake, a model of the Point Reyes Lighthouse,
a whale skeleton and small salt water aquarium. There is a café
and picnic tables (sheltered from the wind) it's a wonderful
spot to have lunch. (If the lighthouse is closed, a good alternative
is Drakes Beach.)
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- Limantour Beach and Muddy Hollow Limantour Beach is
another white sand beach, edged with dunes. While you're walking down
the long Limantour Spit, look for pelicans partying in the water. Crawl
around on your hands and knees in the little paths between the grasses
on the dunes. Good spot to picnic, but it can be windy. Limantour Beach
is he perfect location to fly kites. Tip: You can pick
up a kite at the delightful "Into the Blue" kite shop in Point
Reyes Station.
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· Muddy Hollow Trail The Estero de Limantour
(Limantour Estuary) is home to many marsh birds and ducks. Follow the
Muddy Hollow Trail along the salty stream until you come to a pond surrounded
with reeds. Ducks in the water, white egrets in the estuary and dragon
flies in the air are just some things you'll see on this easy hike.
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- Hiking There are miles of hiking trails on Point Reyes.
If you're interested in longer hikes, stop at the Bear Valley Visitor
Center for maps and information about specific hikes.
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Tips for enjoying Point Reyes
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- The weather is unpredictable on Point Reyes. Even it's a hot
sunny day, the fog can roll in and the weather turn gray and misty.
Bring a sweater, and warm clothing. You can buy sweatshirts at the Bear
Valley Visitor Center or at shops in Point Reyes Station.
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- Dangerous surf At North and South Beach, Abbotts Lagoon
Beach, Kehoe Beach and McClures Beach, do not go in the water.
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- If you're taking longer hikes, bring water (the streams
are lovely, but you can't drink the water.)
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- Have a picnic Point Reyes has many lovely places
to picnic. Chose to spread your lunch out on picnic tables, or just
find a cozy spot on the beach (pick up all your trash). In Point Reyes
Station there are several places to get everything you need: Whale of
a Deli, Bovine Bakery, Tomales Bay Foods, Palace Market. Or, at Inverness,
stop into the Inverness Store.
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- While driving on Point Reyes, tune your radio to 1610 AM for
park info.
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