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Point Reyes National Seashore

Point Reyes

Point Reyes National Seashore, the "island in time," has glorious natural scenery – windswept headlands, sand beaches and chalky cliffs, rocky points, meandering estuaries, grasslands covered wildflowers, fir and fern forests. 40 miles north of San Francisco, Point Reyes peninsula is separated from the coast by the infamous San Andreas Fault that runs into Tomales Bay. For over a thousand years, the Coast Miwok people lived on Point Reyes. In 1579, Sir Francis Drake sailed his ship, the Golden Hind into Drakes Bay. Wherever you go on Point Reyes, the natural world will amaze you.

  • Bear Valley Visitor Center – Make your first stop at the Bear Valley Visitor Center. The Center has exhibits about the plants and animals of Point Reyes, the Coast Miwok and Sir Francis Drake, a model of the peninsula (geologically it's quite interesting), and a bookstore. The stairs to the lighthouse can be closed, due to high winds or fog; any closures are posted each day at the Visitor Center.

· Next to the Visitor Center are picnic tables in shade, and the starting points for the Earthquake Trail or Woodpecker Trail. Both self-guided nature trails are less than a mile and easy walking. On the Earthquake Trail, check out the fence that moved 16 feet in the 1906 earthquake. The Woodpecker Trail passes through grassland into the dense fern and laurel forest and comes out at the Morgan Horse Ranch. On the trail, look for California quail bobbing in the undergrowth, and woodpeckers in the trees.

Mivok village

· Kule Loklo – When Sir Francis Drake arrived at Point Reyes, it was already inhabited by the Coast Miwok people. A quick half mile from the Visitor Center is Kule Loklo ("bear valley"), a re-creation of a Coast Miwok village, built with native tools and techniques. In Kule Loklo, you can run inside and out of a typical Miwok house, a framework of branches covered with redwood bark slabs. Check at the Visitor Center for demonstrations of basket making, grinding acorns and building houses.

Morgan horses

· Morgan Horse Farm – Big chunks of Point Reyes are inaccessible by road, so the park rangers use Morgan horses to keep an eye on the back country. Stop by the working ranch to see the barn where horses are washed and groomed, the pole shed, blacksmith shop, and corrals. The self-guided exhibits cover the history of Morgan horses (the first American breed) too. Check for scheduled demonstrations on grooming, blacksmithing and horse training.

Hearts Desire Beach
  • Tomales Bay State Park – Tomales Bay State Park is perfect for families. Hearts Desire Beach is a fine sand beach with gentle waves and warm water, warm enough to wade and put on swim suits to splash in the water. There are plenty of picnic tables, so bring your lunch and sand toys to dig in the sand.
Tomales Bay State Park

· Johnstone Trail goes to Pebble Beach (half mile). This easygoing trail passes through a cool dense forest, filled with clumps of ferns and moss-covered trees. Watch out for poison oak at the sides of the trail; don't brush up against it. Pebble Beach is another sandy beach, covered with smooth skipping stones (see how far you can skip your stones on the water).

· Or, take the half mile nature trail, crossing over a bridge and little creek to Indian Beach, an even bigger sandy beach. On the beach are a several replicas of Miwok houses, covered with redwood bark. Wade in the creek, play in the sand, splash in the water, Indian Beach is a gem.

Pierce Ranch
  • McClures Beach and Historic Pierce Ranch – Take a drive out to the northern end of Point Reyes, passing by dairy farms, cows quietly munching away. In the 19th century, the Pierce Ranch produced premium butter for San Francisco restaurants. At the ranch, walk into the old hay barn, and around the weathered buildings – the old dairy, calf shed, bunkhouse, one-room schoolhouse where the Pierce kids went to school.
McClures Beach

· Take the .4 mile sandy trail down to McClures Beach. In spring and early summer, the hills are covered with yellow lupine and other wildflowers. The scenery at McClures Beach is stunning, especially the view north to Tomales Point. It's a good beach to run around or look for driftwood, but the surf is rough and there are rip tides. Do not go into the water. Play in the little (seasonal) creek that flows into the beach.

Point Reyes Lighthouse
  • Point Reyes Lighthouse – The Point Reyes Lighthouse is perched on a craggy rock that is the foggiest place on the West Coast. It's almost a half mile walk from the parking lot to the small visitor center.

    · Along the way is a whale watching overlook. This is a good spot to watch the yearly Gray whale migration (December to April, May).

    From the visitor center (check out the exhibits about whales and the lighthouse keeper), you climb down 300 steps to the lighthouse itself. The stairs are well-fenced and energetic little ones can easily go up and down the steps. As you're going down the stairs, that yucky smell is bird droppings from murres, birds that live on the rocks. From the lighthouse, there is a spectacular view of "land's end."

    The lighthouse is closed Tues. and Wed. Tip: The stairs to the lighthouse can be closed due to high winds or fog; check at the Bear Valley Visitor Center to be sure the stairs are open before you drive all the way to the lighthouse.
Drakes Beach
  • Drakes Beach – In 1579, Sir Francis Drake put his ship into the sheltered bay on the southern part of the peninsula. At Drakes Bay, he encountered spectacular white cliffs that reminded him of the Dover cliffs in England, and he named his landing spot "Nova Albion" (New England). Drakes Beach is stunningly beautiful, a long sand beach that goes on forever.

· The Kenneth Patrick Visitor Center has exhibits about Sir Francis Drake, a model of the Point Reyes Lighthouse, a whale skeleton and small salt water aquarium. There is a café and picnic tables (sheltered from the wind) – it's a wonderful spot to have lunch. (If the lighthouse is closed, a good alternative is Drakes Beach.)

Limantour Beach
  • Limantour Beach and Muddy Hollow – Limantour Beach is another white sand beach, edged with dunes. While you're walking down the long Limantour Spit, look for pelicans partying in the water. Crawl around on your hands and knees in the little paths between the grasses on the dunes. Good spot to picnic, but it can be windy. Limantour Beach is he perfect location to fly kites. Tip: You can pick up a kite at the delightful "Into the Blue" kite shop in Point Reyes Station.

· Muddy Hollow Trail – The Estero de Limantour (Limantour Estuary) is home to many marsh birds and ducks. Follow the Muddy Hollow Trail along the salty stream until you come to a pond surrounded with reeds. Ducks in the water, white egrets in the estuary and dragon flies in the air are just some things you'll see on this easy hike.

  • Hiking – There are miles of hiking trails on Point Reyes. If you're interested in longer hikes, stop at the Bear Valley Visitor Center for maps and information about specific hikes.

Tips for enjoying Point Reyes

  • The weather is unpredictable on Point Reyes. Even it's a hot sunny day, the fog can roll in and the weather turn gray and misty. Bring a sweater, and warm clothing. You can buy sweatshirts at the Bear Valley Visitor Center or at shops in Point Reyes Station.
  • Dangerous surf – At North and South Beach, Abbotts Lagoon Beach, Kehoe Beach and McClures Beach, do not go in the water.
  • If you're taking longer hikes, bring water (the streams are lovely, but you can't drink the water.)
  •  Have a picnic – Point Reyes has many lovely places to picnic. Chose to spread your lunch out on picnic tables, or just find a cozy spot on the beach (pick up all your trash). In Point Reyes Station there are several places to get everything you need: Whale of a Deli, Bovine Bakery, Tomales Bay Foods, Palace Market. Or, at Inverness, stop into the Inverness Store.
  • While driving on Point Reyes, tune your radio to 1610 AM for park info.
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